Varanasi -- dawn on the ghats

Siv actually got up around 06:00 on our last morning, so we could go down to the ghats and observe the morning pujas. We were especially interested to see if there were groups of women celebrating Kartika. Were there ever!


Sunrise on the Ganga	Assi Ghat, crowds of worshippers

Ladies celebrating Kartika

Assi and Gangamahal Ghats	The head above the umbrella is Siv's

A word about Kartika. Kartika is the seventh or eighth month of the Hindu year, depending on the part of India. (Imagine having different calendars in different states or departments!) It is during this month that the ladies of Varanasi celebrate the life of the god Krishna for 20 days. During this period, they follow the life of Krishna, from childhood, through his youth as a young man who seduces milkmaids witht the music of his flute, to a final marriage with the plant-goddess Tulsi (basil). The activities of this festival are centered around Tulsi and Assi Ghats. They include singing, clapping and offerings. For some reason, the ladies are usually assembled in groups of six or eight, seated in a circle on the steps of the ghats. This is what we observed.


Groups on the ghats	Collectively holding some sort of cloth

Offering of ghee (butter) candles

Clapping and singing (and smiling)

We especially liked the clapping and singing, which took place in a generally festive, happy atmosphere. Of course, the celebrating women were not the only people at the ghats. Although there were not many tourists at that hour, there were children selling flowers and candles to anyone who would buy them.


Tourists and kids

Man at puja	Young girls selling candles

Goats at play	Laxative ad

What with the Kartika activities, the other people doing puga, kids selling, goats playing and even the add for laxative pills ("And you toilets will once again become a little corner of paradise"), it was fascinating and absorbing.

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