Scotland 2006 - Part 6
Northern Mull and the Ardnamurchan Peninsula
Rolling green hills right across from
Sonachan Hotel,
the most westerly hotel on the British mainland
July 17
Leaving Ardnamurchin, heading towards Skye
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View towards Eigg and Rum from the northern coast of Ardnamurchan, on our way out in the morning
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Eigg and Rum farther off in the distance, as we are turning inland
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Border collie which we saw huge numbers of, adorable and fabulous runners and sheepdogs |
Odd to see a red telephone cabin, ready to serve, back on the main road from Arnamurchan
towards the mainland. Again, you can vaguely see Eigg and Rum on the
horizon. |
After a ferry ride from Mallaig on the mainland to Armadale on Skye, we
decided to take the scenic (one-lane of course) road to the north across the
Sleat peninsula in spite of the very overcast weather. There was still
some beautiful scenery and we didn't regret abandoning the main
road for this wild roller coaster ride.
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A misty afternoon on the northwestern coast of Sleat |
Our ubiquitous friends, the sheep against Etretat-like rocks in the sea |
July 18
Leaving Skye for the Glenelg pensinsula
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Here is the narrow road we took to get down to the Skye
ferry, typical though of the one-lane roads that are abundant in
this part of the world. |
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Looking out towards Glenelg on the mainland |
Our funny little Skye ferry is fighting hard against the incoming tide that pushes it with great force towards starboard |
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The ferry is in and has lowered the end deck to let the cars off |
Ready to 'take off' |
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Looking down the sound of Sleat (pronounced "slate") - Skye on the right - oodles of digitalis in with the luxurious fern |
The Glenelg peninsula
The Glenelg peninsula is interesting for its ancient brochs (iron age
forts) south of the town of Glenelg, and as the setting for Gavin
Maxwell's novel "Ring of Bright Water".
"These are the three brochs that lie inland along Gleann Beag. The largest of these is Dun Telve or
the Lower Broch, the best preserved broch in mainland Scotland, with an external wall that still
stands 10m in height. Nearby is Dun Troddan or the Upper Broch." Undiscovered Scotland
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Dun Telve or the Lower Broch - our first broch on our way to the end of the road |
The laird himself inviting us in |
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Dun Troddan or the Upper Broch |
John and the chatty little girl who trodded along with us on our visit - Sanna? |
We saw only two of the three brochs, since the last one was way off the
path and was in bad shape, as we were told by Scottish forest workers.
So we drove south toward (and beyond) Arnisdale to take a look over Gavin Maxwell country. There was however nothing to be seen at the place where he had had his house and his utters.
Eventually, we actually reached the end of the road! A tea hut had been advertised along the road in several places. It was a wonderful initiative by an elderly lady. A place to sit, a good cup of tea and a scone was exactly what you needed after visiting the various places on the peninsula. There were people in the hut before us but they politely and smilingly left to go on their way as we arrived.
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The people at the end of the road
had been adopted by two beautiful wild deer. They were not attached and they could be gone for quite a
while but always came back. |
This is 'the end of the road'
where an elderly lady had set up a tea 'hut'. She didn't
call it a tea room since it really wasn't a room. |
The male deer had been named Osama by some fellow in the neighborhood but the lady thought that was not a pretty name at all.
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Glen More - beautiful green valley on our way across the peninsula, stretching out south |
"In the aftermath of the 1715 Jacobite uprising the Government
built barracks at four locations across the Highlands, with the best known at
Ruthven. Bernera Barracks, completed in
1723 at Glenelg is very similar to Ruthven, designed to provide defence against light attack and a
secure base from which troops could patrol the surrounding area." (Undiscvovered Scotland)
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Military Bernera Barracks from the early seventeen hundreds |
More of the Bernera Barracks seen through the 'overpass' |
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We have come across the peninsula and are here at Loch Duich
(going off to the left) and the Five Sisters of Kintail slightly to
our right, in the larger region of Glenshiel |
The Glenshiel Area is a well liked tourist goal, fly-fishing, hill walking, and more, with Kintail Lodge situated at the foot of the mountain right on Loch Duich.
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We have just arrived in Plockton in the afternoon |
Looking out towards Loch Carron |
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We've been fond of seagulls since our landlady Margaret's tame seagull, Marty on Scalpay (Harris). So here is Marty 2nd |
After dinner at the very nice Plockton Hotel, we walked out to take another look at the evening light. |
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On our way from Plockton to Glasgow we passed through beautiful Glencoe, going back towards Loch Lochy and Loch Fyne |
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The Three Sisters on the right side of the road as we were leaving our B&B in Glencoe |
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We took a short hike up a serpentine path through the 'Devil's staircase'. The path here looks flatter than it actually was. |
It was just a few hundred meters but here we are at the goal with a beautiful view even on an overcast day |
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Heather heather heather along the path on the way up |
Looking back towards Glencoe where we started out that morning.
We had parked about where the trailer is. |
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Mysterious view up north on a misty morning from the hike through the Devil's staircase |
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