John made one long walk alone, from Beyazit through the Grand Bazar, up to the Süleymaniye Camii, then down through a popular quarter to the Egyptian Bazar. Another day, Siv and John together started at the Egyptian Bazar and made a tour of the area.
1Promenades in Istanbul For one walk, John left the tram at the Beyazit Square entrance to the Grand Bazar (Kapalıçarşı)
2Promenades in Istanbul Old Book Bazar, next to Beyazit Square
3Promenades in Istanbul Beyazit Camii, the Mosque of Sultan Beyazit II (built 1501-1506)
4Promenades in Istanbul Beyazit Square and entrance to the Istanbul University campus
5Promenades in Istanbul In the Grand Bazar, one finds everything
6Promenades in Istanbul Grand Bazar
7Promenades in Istanbul Grand Bazar
8Promenades in Istanbul Blue-jean stand in the Grand Bazar. It's clear how jeans are supposed to be appreciated -- or, rather, what is in them
9Promenades in Istanbul From the Grand Bazar, John walked up to the Sülymaniye Camii (Mosque of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent)
10Promenades in Istanbul Sülymaniye Camii
11Promenades in Istanbul Sülymaniye Camii
12Promenades in Istanbul John photographed these two young ladies taking pictures of each other.
13Promenades in Istanbul Beautiful arches of Sülymaniye Camii
14Promenades in Istanbul Sülymaniye Camii
15Promenades in Istanbul Then he headed off down hill, following his nose, and fell into a fascinating part of town. He wandered along narrow streets almost devoid of cars and bounded by old wooden houses of the sort Orhan Pamuk talks so much about in "The black book" and "Istanbul".
16Promenades in Istanbul This was one of the parts of town where ordinary (non-rich) people reside
17Promenades in Istanbul Old overhanging Istanbul houses painted in vivid colors
18Promenades in Istanbul This gentleman was happy to be photographed with his house
19Promenades in Istanbul Colorful old houses
20Promenades in Istanbul A really old one, in bad shape and certainly a fire trap, but part of it seems to be inhabited
21Promenades in Istanbul Reaching the bottom of the hill on which the Suleymaniye Mosque stands, John found himself in a commercial street -- but not for tourist objects.
22Promenades in Istanbul Tourist photographing mirror display with tourist photographing...
23Promenades in Istanbul Busy commercial street in old Istanbul
24Promenades in Istanbul This man greeted John with "Guten Tag". Turned out he had worked for years in Germany, but he was happy to be at home in Istanbul again. John purchased the coffee pot and pepper shaker the man is holding.
25Promenades in Istanbul Shops in this street were, as in India, grouped by wares. A string of them sold safes, for instance.
26Promenades in Istanbul Wooden cookware
27Promenades in Istanbul Commercial street leading up to the so-called Egyptian Bazar
28Promenades in Istanbul Turkish pastries of pate feuilletée and full of pistachios and honey that make your mouth water
29Promenades in Istanbul Turkish cheese
30Promenades in Istanbul Side entrance to the Egyptian Bazar
31Promenades in Istanbul Another day, Siv and John visited the Egyptian Bazar, or Spice Market, together and went farther afield too.
32Promenades in Istanbul They bought some of these. They ate 'em, too!
33Promenades in Istanbul Egyptian Bazar, or Spice Market
34Promenades in Istanbul Minaret of the Rüstem Paşa Camii (mosque), seen from a narrow street
35Promenades in Istanbul It's easy to miss the entrance to the Rüstem Paşa Camii (mosque). One enters through this unassuming door and walks up a twisting, blind staircase until...
36Promenades in Istanbul ... one comes out upstairs on the terrace of the mosque
37Promenades in Istanbul Arches on the terrace of the Rüstem Paşa Camii
38Promenades in Istanbul Inside, this small mosque is a miracle of varied blue İznik tiles
39Promenades in Istanbul İznik tiles
40Promenades in Istanbul İznik tiles
41Promenades in Istanbul Rotunda of the Rüstem Paşa Camii
42Promenades in Istanbul Just sitting and digging...
43Promenades in Istanbul Arches and beautiful İznik tiles
44Promenades in Istanbul Siv had to borrow a head scarf at the entrance, but got it draped just right. From the big smile, one must conclude that she likes this place too. (She does.)
45Promenades in Istanbul Interior of the Rüstem Paşa Camii
46Promenades in Istanbul More İznik tiles
47Promenades in Istanbul This was on the outside wall of the mosque. It is fascinating, but apparently no one is sure what all of it refers to.
48Promenades in Istanbul Back in the street, wooden cookware on sale. (John bought some.)
49Promenades in Istanbul Siv and vegetable sellers (marchands des quatres saisons)
50Promenades in Istanbul This old wooden Istanbul house is clearly still inhabited. May it last!
51Promenades in Istanbul Narrow street
52Promenades in Istanbul That is probably the minaret of the Rüstem Paşa Camii
53Promenades in Istanbul This gentleman asked us if we liked President Sarkozy. (We said, "No".)
54Promenades in Istanbul Fruits fresh and dried
55Promenades in Istanbul On the square in front of the New Mosque, these ladies were eating ice-cream cones.
56Promenades in Istanbul S & J happened onto a political meeting in front of the New Mosque. Elections were several weeks later.
57Promenades in Istanbul Dancing to get an audience for a political rally
58Promenades in Istanbul Some politico gave this dressed-to-the-gills boy a balloon
59Promenades in Istanbul Some hip-hop for the cause
60Promenades in Istanbul At the Eminönü tram station, this gentleman sold tissues (we bought some) and nourished cats.