Promenades in Istanbul

John made one long walk alone, from Beyazit through the Grand Bazar, up to the Süleymaniye Camii, then down through a popular quarter to the Egyptian Bazar. Another day, Siv and John together started at the Egyptian Bazar and made a tour of the area.
Promenades in Istanbul  For one walk, John left the tram at the Beyazit Square entrance to the Grand Bazar (Kapalıçarşı) Promenades in Istanbul  Old Book Bazar, next to Beyazit Square Promenades in Istanbul  Beyazit Camii, the Mosque of Sultan Beyazit II (built 1501-1506) Promenades in Istanbul  Beyazit Square and entrance to the Istanbul University campus
Promenades in Istanbul  In the Grand Bazar, one finds everything Promenades in Istanbul  Grand Bazar Promenades in Istanbul  Grand Bazar Promenades in Istanbul  Blue-jean stand in the Grand Bazar. It's clear how jeans are supposed to be appreciated -- or, rather, what is in them
Promenades in Istanbul  From the Grand Bazar, John walked up to the Sülymaniye Camii (Mosque of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent) Promenades in Istanbul  Sülymaniye Camii Promenades in Istanbul  Sülymaniye Camii Promenades in Istanbul  John photographed these two young ladies taking pictures of each other.
Promenades in Istanbul  Beautiful arches of Sülymaniye Camii Promenades in Istanbul  Sülymaniye Camii Promenades in Istanbul  Then he headed off down hill, following his nose, and fell into a fascinating part of town. He wandered along narrow streets almost devoid of cars and bounded by old wooden houses of the sort Orhan Pamuk talks so much about in "The black book" and "Istanbul". Promenades in Istanbul  This was one of the parts of town where ordinary (non-rich) people reside
Promenades in Istanbul  Old overhanging Istanbul houses painted in vivid colors Promenades in Istanbul  This gentleman was happy to be photographed with his house Promenades in Istanbul  Colorful old houses Promenades in Istanbul  A really old one, in bad shape and certainly a fire trap, but part of it seems to be inhabited
Promenades in Istanbul  Reaching the bottom of the hill on which the Suleymaniye Mosque stands, John found himself in a commercial street -- but not for tourist objects. Promenades in Istanbul  Tourist photographing mirror display with tourist photographing... Promenades in Istanbul  Busy commercial street in old Istanbul Promenades in Istanbul  This man greeted John with "Guten Tag". Turned out he had worked for years in Germany, but he was happy to be at home in Istanbul again. John purchased the coffee pot and pepper shaker the man is holding.
Promenades in Istanbul  Shops in this street were, as in India, grouped by wares. A string of them sold safes, for instance. Promenades in Istanbul  Wooden cookware Promenades in Istanbul  Commercial street leading up to the so-called Egyptian Bazar Promenades in Istanbul  Turkish pastries of pate feuilletée and full of pistachios and honey that make your mouth water
Promenades in Istanbul  Turkish cheese Promenades in Istanbul  Side entrance to the Egyptian Bazar Promenades in Istanbul  Another day, Siv and John visited the Egyptian Bazar, or Spice Market, together and went farther afield too. Promenades in Istanbul  They bought some of these. They ate 'em, too!
Promenades in Istanbul  Egyptian Bazar, or Spice Market Promenades in Istanbul  Minaret of the Rüstem Paşa Camii (mosque), seen from a narrow street Promenades in Istanbul  It's easy to miss the entrance to the Rüstem Paşa Camii (mosque). One enters through this unassuming door and walks up a twisting, blind staircase until... Promenades in Istanbul  ... one comes out upstairs on the terrace of the mosque
Promenades in Istanbul  Arches on the terrace of the Rüstem Paşa Camii Promenades in Istanbul  Inside, this small mosque is a miracle of varied blue İznik tiles Promenades in Istanbul  İznik tiles Promenades in Istanbul  İznik tiles
Promenades in Istanbul  Rotunda of the Rüstem Paşa Camii Promenades in Istanbul  Just sitting and digging... Promenades in Istanbul  Arches and beautiful İznik tiles Promenades in Istanbul  Siv had to borrow a head scarf at the entrance, but got it draped just right. From the big smile, one must conclude that she likes this place too. (She does.)
Promenades in Istanbul  Interior of the Rüstem Paşa Camii Promenades in Istanbul  More İznik tiles Promenades in Istanbul  This was on the outside wall of the mosque. It is fascinating, but apparently no one is sure what all of it refers to. Promenades in Istanbul  Back in the street, wooden cookware on sale. (John bought some.)
Promenades in Istanbul  Siv and vegetable sellers (marchands des quatres saisons) Promenades in Istanbul  This old wooden Istanbul house is clearly still inhabited. May it last! Promenades in Istanbul  Narrow street Promenades in Istanbul  That is probably the minaret of the Rüstem Paşa Camii
Promenades in Istanbul  This gentleman asked us if we liked President Sarkozy. (We said, "No".) Promenades in Istanbul  Fruits fresh and dried Promenades in Istanbul  On the square in front of the New Mosque, these ladies were eating ice-cream cones. Promenades in Istanbul  S & J happened onto a political meeting in front of the New Mosque. Elections were several weeks later.
Promenades in Istanbul  Dancing to get an audience for a political rally Promenades in Istanbul  Some politico gave this dressed-to-the-gills boy a balloon Promenades in Istanbul  Some hip-hop for the cause Promenades in Istanbul  At the Eminönü tram station, this gentleman sold tissues (we bought some) and nourished cats.